The Manjula Pothos is a unique pothos plant loved by indoor plant enthusiasts. It is easy to care for and has beautiful leaves with white, silver, and cream mixed with green, covering 30-50% of each leaf. The colors, called variegation, stay bright if you care for it well.
Manjula grows more slowly than other pothos because it has less chlorophyll, but it reaches 1-10 feet indoors if kept in good conditions. Its heart-shaped, wavy leaves make it stand out, and it even helps clean the air.
It is very hardy, surviving in most indoor settings with low to medium light and room temperatures. Popular since 2016, Manjula Pothos may cost more than regular pothos, but it’s a favorite for its looks and easy care.
What is Manjula Pothos?
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Common Names | Manjula pothos |
| Botanical Name | Epipremnum aureum |
| Family | Araceae |
| Plant Type | Evergreen vine |
| Size | Height: Up to 10 feet, Width: Up to 4 feet |
| Leaf Shape | Heart-shaped when young; larger, split leaves when mature |
| Sun Exposure | Prefers bright, indirect light; tolerates low light |
| Soil Type | Well-aerated, drains well; grows in perlite, vermiculite, or sphagnum moss |
| Soil pH | Slightly acidic to neutral |
| Hardiness Zones | 10-12 for outdoor growth; widely grown as an indoor plant |
| Native Area | Mo’orea, Society Islands of French Polynesia |
| Toxicity | Toxic to pets and humans if ingested |
| Special Traits | Rarely flowers naturally; grows well from cuttings and is easy to propagate |
Ideal Growing Conditions for Manjula Pothos
Light Needs
Manjula Pothos grows best in bright, indirect sunlight. Some morning sunlight is okay, but avoid harsh afternoon rays, which can burn the leaves. If it is not getting enough light, you might see smaller leaves, slower growth, or a loss of its beautiful colors. Too much light can cause yellow or burned spots and crispy edges on the leaves.
Temperature Range
This plant prefers temperatures between 60-90°F (16-32°C). For the best growth, try to keep it between 70-75°F (21-24°C). Temperatures below 50°F (10°C) may cause the leaves to turn black, while temperatures above 90°F (32°C) can make them wilt. Avoid placing it near cold drafts, like from air conditioners or open windows.
Humidity Levels
Manjula Pothos thrives in 60-70% humidity. If humidity drops below 40%, the leaves might get brown tips, crispy edges, or start curling. To increase humidity, you can use a pebble tray with water under the plant, add a room humidifier, or group plants together to create a more humid environment.
Soil Preferences
This plant does best in soil that drains well. A good soil mix includes 2 parts regular potting soil, 1 part perlite, and 1 part orchid bark. The soil should be slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-6.5) and contain plenty of organic matter. Watch out for waterlogged, compacted, or slow-draining soil, which can harm the plant. Avoid using heavy garden soil or pure peat moss.
How to Care for Manjula Pothos
Watering
Water your Manjula Pothos when the top 2-3 inches of soil feels dry. This matches the plant’s need for moderate moisture. Water less in winter when the plant’s growth slows. Signs of too much water include yellow leaves, soggy soil, and root rot. If it’s too dry, the plant may droop, and the leaves might curl. When watering, soak the soil until water drains from the pot’s holes, then empty the saucer underneath.
Fertilizing
Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer (with equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, like 10-10-10). Feed once a month during spring and summer, when the plant grows fastest. In fall and winter, reduce feeding to once every three months, as the plant doesn’t need as many nutrients. Too much fertilizer can harm the roots.
Pruning
Prune your Manjula Pothos in spring or early summer when it is growing well. Cut the stems just above a leaf node to help it branch out. Remove any yellow, damaged, or dead leaves to keep the plant healthy. You can also trim long vines to keep a full shape and use the cuttings to grow new plants.
Repotting
Repot the Manjula Pothos every 2-3 years or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot. Choose a new pot that is only 1-2 inches larger than the current one. Use soil that drains well, like a mix of 2 parts potting soil and 1 part perlite. The best time to repot is in early spring, just before it starts new growth.
Propagating Manjula Pothos
Manjula Pothos is easy to propagate by stem cuttings. This helps you grow new plants and makes your original plant fuller. Each cut stem will branch out. You can also repot the rooted cuttings back into the original pot to make your plant bigger.
Water Propagation
Cut a 4-6 inch stem with 2-3 nodes.
Remove leaves from the bottom nodes.
Place the stem in clean water, making sure the nodes are underwater.
Change the water every 5-7 days.
Roots will grow in 2-3 weeks.
When the roots are 2-3 inches long, plant it in soil.
Soil Propagation
Cut a 4-6 inch stem with nodes.
Optionally dip the end in rooting hormone.
Plant the stem in moist, well-draining soil.
Use a pencil to make small holes in the soil.
Keep the soil moist, but not soggy.
Roots will form in 3-4 weeks.
Best Time to Propagate
The best time is spring to early summer.
Temperature should be between 70-85°F (21-29°C).
Avoid propagating in winter.
Take cuttings in the morning when the plant is well-watered.
Caring for New Cuttings
Place cuttings in bright, indirect light.
Keep humidity at 60-70%.
Cover with a clear plastic bag to keep humidity high.
Keep the temperature around 75°F (24°C).
Monitoring & Maintenance
Check moisture every day.
Remove any yellowing leaves.
Gently tug the cutting after 3-4 weeks to check for roots.
Common Problems
Rotting stems: Reduce watering and improve airflow.
No roots: Check light and temperature.
Yellowing leaves: Normal on old cuttings, just remove them.
Slow growth: Increase warmth and humidity.
Signs of Successful Propagation
New leaves growing.
Firm stems when gently tugged.
Visible roots if in water.
Healthy overall appearance.
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Common Problems and Solutions
Yellowing Leaves
Overwatering: Overwatering is one of the most common causes of yellowing leaves. When a plant receives too much water, the soil becomes soggy, and the roots cannot properly absorb oxygen. As a result, the lower leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. To solve this problem, reduce the frequency of watering and make sure the pot has good drainage to allow excess water to escape. Prevent this issue by only watering the plant when the top 1-2 inches of the soil feel dry.
Nutrient Deficiency: Another cause of yellowing leaves is a lack of essential nutrients, particularly nitrogen. When a plant doesn’t get enough nutrients, the leaves may turn yellow, especially between the veins. The best way to fix this is by applying a balanced fertilizer with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, such as NPK 10-10-10. To prevent this from happening in the future, feed the plant regularly during its growing season.
Light Issues: Inadequate light can also cause yellowing of the leaves. When the plant doesn’t get enough light, the leaves may turn a pale yellow color. To fix this, move the plant to a spot where it will get brighter, indirect light. To prevent this problem, keep the plant in an area where the light conditions are consistent, ensuring it gets the right amount of light for its needs.
Leaf Burn or Browning Edges
Direct Sunlight: Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves of a plant, causing them to burn and develop brown edges. To prevent this, move the plant away from the harsh sun and into a spot with filtered light. You can also use sheer curtains to soften the sunlight.
Low Humidity: Low humidity levels can also cause the edges of the leaves to brown. Plants like higher humidity, and if the air is too dry, they can suffer. You can solve this by placing a humidity tray near the plant or using a humidifier to maintain a humidity level between 50-70%. Mist the leaves in the morning to provide some extra moisture.
Fertilizer Burn: Excess fertilizer can damage a plant’s roots and leaves, causing the leaf edges to brown. To fix this, flush the soil with clean water to remove the excess fertilizer. In the future, always dilute your fertilizer to half strength to avoid overfeeding the plant.
Pests
Spider Mites: Spider mites are tiny pests that leave fine webbing and cause spotted damage on the leaves. To treat spider mites, spray the plant with a neem oil solution (2 teaspoons per quart of water) and increase the humidity around the plant. Isolate the affected plant to prevent the mites from spreading. Regularly clean the leaves and keep the humidity high to prevent spider mites from returning.
Mealybugs: Mealybugs are soft, white, cotton-like pests that appear in clusters on the plant. To treat them, dab the affected areas with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol. You can also use insecticidal soap spray to get rid of them. Check the plant weekly for pests and ensure good airflow around the plant. Prevent mealybugs by inspecting new plants before bringing them home.
Scale Insects: Scale insects are small, round, brown bumps that stick to the stems or leaves of the plant. To remove them, use a soft brush to gently scrub them off, and apply horticultural oil to smother the insects. Repeat this treatment every 7-10 days until the infestation is gone. Regularly inspect your plants for scale insects to catch them early.
Root Rot
Prevention: Proper Watering: Root rot is caused by overwatering and poor drainage. To prevent root rot, always use well-draining soil and ensure the pot has drainage holes to allow excess water to escape. Empty the drainage tray after watering and check the soil moisture before watering again to avoid waterlogging the roots.
Early Signs of Root Rot: You may notice signs of root rot if the stems near the soil feel soft and mushy, or if the soil gives off a bad smell. The plant may also wilt, even when the soil is moist, and its leaves may turn yellow. These are all signs that the roots are rotting and the plant is not getting enough oxygen.
Immediate Action: If you notice early signs of root rot, act quickly. Remove the plant from the pot and trim off any black or mushy roots. Rinse the healthy roots under running water to remove any dirt or bacteria. Be sure to clean your tools with a 10% bleach solution to prevent the spread of disease.
Recovery: Once the unhealthy roots are removed, repot the plant in fresh, sterile soil, and use a pot with drainage holes. Water the plant less frequently to prevent further rot. You can also apply fungicide to help the plant recover.
Aftercare
Monitor the plant closely for 2-3 weeks, watching for any signs of stress or further root rot. Keep the leaves dry when watering and ensure the plant has good air circulation. Allow the soil to dry out completely before watering again to avoid overwatering.
Is Manjula Pothos Safe for Pets?
No, Manjula Pothos is not safe for pets. It contains crystals that can hurt pets if they chew on it. If a cat or dog eats part of this plant, it can cause a burning feeling in their mouth, drooling, vomiting, and trouble swallowing. To keep pets safe, it’s best to keep Manjula Pothos out of their reach.
Styling and Display Ideas
Manjula pothos is a stylish plant that adds beauty to any room. Here are simple ways to display it:
Hanging Planters: Use macramé holders to let the vines hang down. They can grow 4-6 feet long, creating a dramatic look.
Wall Displays: Use wall trellises to shape the vines in fun patterns, or place pots on staggered floating shelves for a “living wall” effect.
Pot Choices: White pots match the plant’s cream-and-green leaves. Natural pots like terra cotta or bamboo give a cozy, earthy feel.
Mix with Other Plants: Pair Manjula with upright plants like Snake plants for contrast. Or, mix it with trailing plants like String of Pearls for a layered look.
Tabletop Decor: Use small stands or geometric pots to add height and place Manjula next to easy-care plants like Peace Lilies for a beautiful, low-maintenance setup.
FAQs
How much light does Manjula Pothos need?
Manjula pothos grows best in bright, indirect light, which helps maintain the white and green color in its leaves. It can adapt to lower light, but the variegation might fade. Be careful to avoid placing it in direct sunlight, as this can scorch and damage the delicate leaves.
What type of soil works best for Manjula Pothos?
This plant thrives in well-draining potting soil. A standard indoor potting mix usually works well, but adding perlite can improve drainage, which prevents water from sitting around the roots and causing root rot.
How often should I water my Manjula Pothos?
Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry. This typically means watering once every 1-2 weeks, but it depends on your home’s humidity and light levels. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so it’s better to let the soil dry out a bit between waterings.
How do I prune Manjula Pothos?
Pruning is helpful to keep the plant looking full and healthy. Use clean, sharp scissors to trim long vines or leggy growth. This encourages new growth from the base, making the plant appear bushier. You can even use the cuttings to propagate new plants by rooting them in water or soil.
What pests should I watch out for?
Manjula Pothos can attract common houseplant pests like mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. Regularly check the leaves, especially the undersides, for any signs of pests. If you see pests, treat them with insecticidal soap or Neem oil. Acting early can keep the plant healthy and prevent infestations from spreading.